Is it another layer to add to my routine and just a marketing gimmick?
Let’s debunk what serums are and the importance of using the correct one in your routine?
WHAT IS A SERUM?
A serum is a concentrate of active ingredients. Serums can be water or lipid based, or a blend of both.
Serums are great at delivering a high concentration of active ingredients due to it being made up of smaller molecules. This makes them great as targeted trouble shooters for specific skin concerns like wrinkles, dullness, uneven skin tone etc.
Serums are a great addition to a skincare regime and can certainly boost results.
MY ADVICE is not to go straight for the serum until you have a steady and effective routine of cleansing and moisturising twice a day; these steps are non-negotiable. Then you can help to sophisticate your routine beyond these basic steps.
ARE ALL SERUMS THE SAME?
Not all serums are the same!
It is very important to make sure the serum you are using has the right quality of actives and efficiency in penetrating the skin. That means how the active ingredient is going to be encapsulated and what it is delivering. These two factors can dramatically effect the efficacy of serums.
A good serum will have a delivery system such as liposomes, these have similar membranes to living cells. They can protect the active ingredients and effectively penetrate the skin without having any lingering effect.
What you don’t want is active ingredients not being encapsulated correctly as this can lead to irritation!
We want the active ingredients to be delivered in the deeper layers of the skin to influence cell-to-cell communication, in turn supplying these cells with the nutrients they require to function at optimal health they then make their return journey to the outer most layer of our skin providing the desired effect on your skin concern.
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:
Don’t go cheap and cheerful on your serum, be willing to spend more on this product to ensure you are getting the right quality of actives and delivery system.
If you can, go for a pharmaceutical or cosmeceutical brand, they are typically formulated with a high quality of active ingredients and have clinical trials to support their claims. Ultimately, they will work harder for your skin to help you achieve your results!
WHY IS IT DIFFERENT TO A MOISTURSER?
A moisturiser’s main role is to keep the moisture barrier intact and to provide a protective shield between your skin and the environment.
You should always seal a serum with a good moisturiser. Although a serum is meant to hydrate the skin, its main goal is to deliver actives deeper into the skin.
You need a moisturiser with an SPF or moisturiser and separate SPF during the day and a non-SPF moisturiser at night that is formulated for your skin type, e.g. oily or dry.
WHEN SHOULD I USE A SERUM?
Serums should be used after cleansing and toning and before moisturising.
First, cleanse your skin with a gentle cleanser. Then, apply an alcohol-free toner to a damp cotton pad. Apply the serum while your skin is slightly damp. By leaving the skin damp it is more permeable than dry skin helping the serum penetrate deeper. This isn’t applicable when using retinol serums, this should be applied to dry skin.
Follow with your moisturiser.
CAN I MIX SERUMS?
No! Each serum has been specially created to be used for a specific purpose. For example, Vitamin A (Retinol) Serums will be used in the evening as they are photosensitive; and an SPF must be worn during the day. During the day an antioxidant serum is a great choice for environmental protection. By mixing serums you could be creating your own concoction and potentially underdoing the efficacy of either serum.
TOP TIP: More is not always better. Be careful before using a serum. Active ingredients can irritate sensitive skin. Always patch-test first and introduce slowly into your routine, start once a week, then twice a week and build up to using it daily.
ARE SERUMS THE SAME AS FACE OILS?
No! There are two main types of serums, water-based serums and oil-based serums.
Water-based serums go under your moisturiser, these are the ones that will penetrate the deeper layers of the skin.
Oil-based serums, also known as facial oils, go on top of your moisturiser, these are different as they have a bigger molecule. There are designed to boost your moisturiser, furthermore, locking in moisture, these are not suitable or needed by everyone.
WHAT SERUM SHOULD I USE?
Here is a sample list of skin concerns and some active ingredients found in serums that may help your skin.
FOR BLEMISH PRONE SKIN:
SALICYLIC ACID also known as BHA, helps to unclog pores acting as an exfoliant to increase the shedding of dead skin cells, it is one of very few ingredients that can penetrate the pore itself and help exfoliate it.
ZINC is great for the prevention and care of blemished skin; it can soothe irritation and regulate oil production.
FOR SKIN AGEING:
VITAMIN C supports collagen formation, also helps to brighten dull skin, in a stronger strength it can fade mottled discolouration.
RETINOL considered the gold standard in anti-ageing; it has regenerating properties for skin cell renewal helping a whole array of skin ageing concerns.
FOR PREMATURE AGEING:
ANTIOXIDANTS are key and found in most serum formulations in some capacity; these help to protect the skin against premature ageing by protecting against external pollutants and free radical damage. They also promote cellular repair at night.
Green tea
Resveratrol
Ferulic acid
Vitamn C&E
Coenzyme Q10
FOR SKIN REDNESS & IRRITATION:
LINSEED OIL contains alpha-linolenic acid for prevention and care of reddened skin
CM GLUCAN accelerates skin healing and skin hydration
If you want to know what ingredients, serums and skincare products would be right for you book a Skin Coaching session…
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